The ultimate guide to Louis Vuitton date stamp authentication

Louis Vuitton history, formats, and authentication.

Louis Vuitton is a brand that everyone knows. A name synonymous with luxury and craftsmanship has long been a coveted brand for fashion enthusiasts and collectors alike. One of the key elements that contributes to the brand's allure and authenticity is the use of date stamps. These codes, discreetly placed within the products, offer insights into the item's origin and manufacturing date. Understanding these date stamps is crucial for both buyers and sellers in the luxury market, mainly vintage bags made before March 2021.

A brief history of Louis Vuitton date stamps

The beginning of date stamps in Louis Vuitton products dates back to the early 1980s. Previously, the brand did not utilize a coding system to indicate the manufacturing details of its items. The introduction of date stamps was primarily a response to the increasing prevalence of counterfeit products in the market. By embedding specific codes into their goods, Louis Vuitton aimed to provide a method for verifying authenticity and tracing the product's origin.

Why date stamps matter

The purpose of Louis Vuitton’s date codes has always been to trace the product's origin and to serve as an additional layer of authentication. Before the 80s, Louis Vuitton items bore no such marks. However, as global demand surged and counterfeit markets grew, the brand introduced date stamps to help control quality and establish provenance.

These codes evolved over time, becoming more detailed and systematized in response to expanding manufacturing sites and changing consumer needs. Although never intended to be the sole proof of authenticity, date codes are one of the most commonly consulted features during authentication.

Evolution of date stamp formats

Over the decades, Louis Vuitton's date stamp formats have undergone several transformations to enhance security and provide more detailed information:

Pre-1980: No date codes.
Early 1980s: The initial format comprised three or four numbers. The first two digits represented the year, while the remaining one or two digits indicated the month. For example, a code reading "823" would signify that the item was manufactured in March 1982.
Mid to Late 1980s: To add more specificity, letters were introduced to the codes. These letters denoted the factory location. The format evolved to include three or four numbers followed by two letters. For instance, "874VX" would indicate a manufacturing date of April 1987 in France.
1990 to 2006: The format shifted to two letters followed by four numbers. The letters continued to represent the factory location. The numbering system was adjusted so that the first and third digits represented the month, while the second and fourth digits indicated the year. For example, "VI1025" would correspond to December 2005, produced in France.
2007 to Early 2021: In an effort to provide even more precise manufacturing details, the format was revised. The two letters still denoted the factory location. However, the first and third numbers now represented the week of the year, and the second and fourth numbers indicated the year. For example, "BC2057" would mean the item was produced in the 25th week of 2007 in Italy.
March 2021 Onwards: Louis Vuitton transitioned from using visible date codes to embedding microchips within their products. These chips, invisible to the naked eye, store detailed information about the item's origin, manufacturing date, and more. This move was aimed at enhancing product traceability and combating counterfeiting more effectively.

Factory location indicators Louis Vuitton codes

The letters in the date codes are abbreviations for the factory locations where the items were produced. Some of the common codes include:

France: A0, A1, A2, AA, AR, BA, BJ, BU, DR, DU, CO, CT, ET, FL, LA, LW, MB, MI, NO, RA, RI, SD, SF, SL, SN, SP, SR, TA, TJ, TH, TN, TR, TS, VI, VX
Italy: BC, BO, CE, FN, FO, MA, NZ, OB, PL, RC, RE, SA, TD
Spain: CA, LO, LB, LM, LW, GI, UB
USA: FC, FH, LA, OS, SD, FL, TX
Germany: LP, OL
Switzerland: DI, FA

It's essential to note that some codes may appear in multiple countries, and certain special codes like "VI" are used for private custom orders.

Locating the date codes

Finding the date code on a Louis Vuitton item can be a meticulous task, as they are often discreetly placed to maintain the product's aesthetic appeal. Common locations include:

Handbags: Inside pockets, on leather tabs, or along seams.
Wallets and Small Leather Goods: Stamped along the inner edge of bill compartments or within pockets.
Agendas: Under the flap closest to a seam.
Luggage: Near the handles or inside compartments.

It's worth mentioning that in items with Alcantara linings, the date codes may fade over time, making them challenging to locate or read.

The role of date codes in authentication

While date codes provide valuable information about a Louis Vuitton item's origin and manufacturing date, they are not standalone indicators of authenticity. Counterfeiters have become increasingly adept at replicating these codes.

Therefore, when authenticating a Louis Vuitton bag or other item, it's crucial to consider multiple factors:

Font and Embossing: Genuine date codes have consistent font styles and are cleanly embossed.
Material and Craftsmanship: Authentic items exhibit high-quality materials and impeccable craftsmanship.
Stitching and Hardware: Uniform stitching and high-quality hardware are hallmarks of genuine Louis Vuitton products.
Overall Design Consistency: The product's design should align with known authentic models and styles. For instance, on the Neverfull bag, the date code is hidden under the pocket.
Special codes like VI (private custom orders) or DK (store repairs) are rare and indicate unique circumstances.

For items produced after March 2021, the embedded microchips serve as a more reliable method for authentication. However, accessing the information stored in these chips typically requires specialized equipment available at Louis Vuitton boutiques.

March 2021 - Present: transition to microchips

As of March 2021, Louis Vuitton began phasing out visible date codes and replacing them with embedded microchips. These NFC (Near Field Communication) chips are sewn into the product lining and are undetectable to the naked eye. They contain detailed manufacturing data and can only be read using Louis Vuitton's proprietary scanning equipment.

Key Difference: There is no visible code. Authenticity and origin data are accessible only via digital scan in boutiques.
Why This Matters: For post-2021 items, buyers must rely on trusted resale platforms or Louis Vuitton stores to access this data.

Where to find the date code in a Louis Vuitton bag

Speedy: Leather tab inside interior pocket seam.
Neverfull: The date code is located inside the bag, along the interior edge of the zip pocket, on a leather tab.
Alma: Usually inside the interior pocket or along the side seam.
Keepall: Often on the leather tab next to the handle or near the bag’s top edge.
Alma: Date code is located inside the flat pocket, stamped on a leather tab.
Artsy : The date code is located on the fabric of the lining inside one of the wall pockets or on a vachetta leather tab, usually located on an interior pocket.

We get a lot of Louis Vuitton bags to restore and repair, and sometimes our clients don’t know if they own a real bag or not; sometimes, some gifts may come from another provenance. It happens. Always match the format to an era: ensure your bag style matches the code period, e.g., a 1970s Speedy should never have a 1990s code!

Over the years, Louis Vuitton has employed a variety of fonts for its date codes, serving both as a method of identifying the item’s place and date of manufacture, and as a strategy to counterfeits. Depending on the year and the production site, date codes may appear in either serif or sans-serif fonts; for instance, different Speedy bags can feature both styles.

Moreover, a single style of bag may have had its date codes placed in different locations over time, as manufacturing shifted across countries like France, Spain, and the USA. The appearance of a date code can also vary based on the material into which it is stamped, whether pressed into Alcantara lining, embossed on a leather tab, or ink-stamped on epi leather, each will look slightly different.

These variations, while potentially confusing to the untrained eye, are intentional. Louis Vuitton has consistently used these subtle differences to make it harder for counterfeiters to replicate authentic pieces with precision.

So, understanding Louis Vuitton's date stamps is an invaluable skill for anyone, especially if they’re involved in the luxury goods market. These codes offer insights into the product's history and serve as one of the tools in verifying authenticity. However, they should be used in conjunction with other authentication methods to ensure the genuineness of a Louis Vuitton item. As the brand continues to innovate in its fight against counterfeiting, staying informed about these changes is essential for collectors and enthusiasts alike.